If you are intending to be in Dunedin, south
island New Zealand, you will
certainly be looking for things to do in and around in this fine University
city
or,
better still, you could be intending to travel between Dunedin and
Queenstown. Either way a trip on the Taieri Gorge Railway could be for
you.We were blessed with a day of brilliant sunshine, which showed off the
magnificent scenery to best effect. The area of Otago through which the
railway was cut, following the line of the Taieri River valley, has a rugged
natural beauty, and the range of colours -with the early flowers, varied
shades of green of the grass,
trees,
and shrubs, and the ever present yellow of the gorse covering the hillsides-
was visually stunning.
As in so many mountainous and beautiful parts of the world ( I have in mind Wales and Scotland) the 60 Km of track is all that remains of a much longer line, in this case what was the Central Otago Railway. It is maintained and run by a dedicated volunteer group (Otago Excursion Train Trust), though, unlike many other lines worldwide, considerable support has been forthcoming both from the public and the forward looking and farseeing Dunedin City Council , which recognised the line’s clear tourist potential.
As an aside the starting point Dunedin Station is a beautiful building, an architectural treat, nowadays much underused. To get some idea of its past take a look at A.J.Hurst's photos of railway activity there in the early 1990's, featuring 'The South Island Limited' express.Also Georg Trüb's recent picture of this historic building,as backdrop to a Mainline Steam Trust event.
The Central
Otago Railway covered some 230 Km from just south of Dunedin to Cromwell,
built at considerable expense ( not just financial but also in terms
of loss of life amongst the labourers) in the late C19th. Especially
through the gorge the line represents a considerable engineering feat, with
its many short tunnels, tight curves, narrow cuttings, and impressive

wrought iron bridges, some of them of awesome height and length, enabling it
to snake its way up the valley, often it seemed barely clinging to the
valley side above rocky and precipitous drops to the rushing river below.
Built to serve economic aspects of the hinterland of Dunedin, some minerals were carried ( New Zealand had its own ‘Gold Rush’) but mainly the line serviced a Central Otago agricultural base, including isolated farm stations, which otherwise had no means of getting produce and livestock to their markets at that time, nor receiving the essential supplies that were needed.
The Taieri Gorge Train itself comprises distinctive yellowy orange and brown liveried carriages hauled by a set of blue diesel engines. The railway operates year round daily services from Dunedin to Pukerangi, or at certain times of the year a little further to Middlemarch.




Refreshments are available on board and the journey itself is leisurely. Speeds are not great so taking photographs on route is relatively easy, from wherever you happen to be on the train. Also at intervals the train stops at vantage points to allow people off to take more pictures if they so wish. The round trip takes just less than 5 hours.
Currently (2006) a half day excursion return journey from Dunedin main train station to the terminus (it seemed the middle of nowhere !) at Pukerangi is NZ$ 63 per adult, a great deal allowing one accompanied child to travel free, with additional children at NZ$ 18 each. The corresponding fares for a single journey are respectively NZ$ 41.50 adult, first child free, and other children NZ$12.Discounts are available to students, backpackers, and groups of 10+ adults.



Alternatively do as we did. Take this unique rail trip as part of your journey from Dunedin to Queenstown. We checked our luggage in at Dunedin Station and didn’t have to bother with it again until we reached our hotel in Queenstown. At the end of the 2 hour rail trip we were met by a very comfortable ‘Newtons Tours’ mini-coach (Track and Trail Coach Connection) at Pukerangi, which, in 4 hours, took us onward to our destination at Queenstown., via Middlemarch, Ranfurly, Omakau, Alexandra, and Cromwell.




For much of the way the excellent road follows the former route of the Central Otago Railway, which is being converted by stages into a Tourist Trail, The Otago Central Rail Trail. The coach journeys through a range of everchanging landscapes,mountains,plains,apparent semi desert: sheep,cattle,deer,orchards,vineyards….
The single Track and Trail Coach Connection package cost NZ$115 each ( children would be NZ$ 58).
A truly remarkable journey and experience, which can be recommended unreservedly.
John Swan
Links:
Track and Trail Coach Connection



